One Foot in Front of the Other
walking to Saint James

Birdsong from scrub that burns with blossoms; someone’s dirty old mop sleeping in the middle of the path that turns out to be a funny little dog; a kiss, a hug from an old lady who offers a candy, a cookie, a “que valiente, que forte, que guapa” for a tired little pilgrim; a fellow traveller who in real life is a masseuse who gives you a desperately needed shoulder massage halfway through your 25 km day; a rock sitting in the middle of the meseda, the “desert” of the Camino, with a hand painted message COFFEE 4 KMS ->; a cool river for aching feet, and always, always, the sweet breeze from the west just when you’re ready to give up - some of the gifts, the immediate gifts of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. The bigger gifts come later. Sometimes, much later.

Make no mistake, though some guidebooks describe the Camino as a “gentle 900 km meander through the north of Spain”, and the Camino never threw at us anything more difficult than the equivalent of a really long hike in the Borders, or maybe one of the “lesser” (and I use the word lesser cautiously) Munros, or an average day hike in the Rocky Mountains, it is an arduous journey that takes or teaches tremendous inner strength. Endurance, focus, self-discipline, fortitude, the ability to withstand pain, as is the ability to endure or ignore the more unappealing behaviours of fellow pilgrims, are the ingredients of each day as one forces oneself to rise from an often uncomfortable or sleepless bed, eat whatever one can find, shoulder a heavy pack and head out once again, with a tired, sore body not knowing sometimes where the next meal is never mind the next bed. This is the Camino that ultimately eludes many – someone told me that less than 50% of those that start, finish the Camino, and judging by what we saw in our early weeks, that may hold true. Bad feet, bad knees, bad attitudes felled people left, right and centre. Sometimes one simply has bad luck – a very fit Danish woman had to quit after 400 kms because an ant bit her, and she got a crippling infection in her foot.

Sometimes now I look at photos I took at the 628 km mark, or maybe the 567 km mark, or even the 225 km mark, and marvel at us. Why didn’t we stop? Wasn’t 300 kms enough? And then I look at the photo I took of a hand painted rock that sat at the side of the Camino, a simple message in German written on it, “Santiago ich komme”, a little blue clad pilgrim in the background of the photo, walking walking walking towards Santiago de Compostela, and my throat tightens, my tears form. Of course, it’s simple -we walked this ancient route for Saint James to feed some longing in our hearts and we walked for her, our child, for whom we promised God we would make this pilgrimage ten years ago. After ten years we fulfilled this promise of thanksgiving.

But there are as many reasons to walk the Camino of Santiago de Compostela, as there are pilgrims. Some look for direction. Some are running away. Some are celebrating completion of something – a university degree, high school, maybe twenty-five years of marriage. Some are mourning the loss of a loved one, a marriage, a way of living. Some want to change something in their lives. Some are recovering from something – we saw heart surgery scars, a brain tumour scar, we met the depressed, all carrying badges of a different kind of courage alongside their scallop shells.

Some pilgrims are giving themselves a mental and physical challenge. Some are looking for God. An ex-military man, an American, was hiking for Sister Scholastica, his fifth grade teacher who told him he’d amount to nothing. Some are looking for love (and we saw lots of that). Some just simply want to walk. Many don’t know why they are walking; they just had to do it and didn’t know why. Of the latter, most say they aren’t religious, yet curiously, when it comes time to receive their Compostela, their pilgrim certificate, they choose the religious rather than the secular, the beautiful Compostela written in Latin, the full-blown, unapologetically Roman Catholic certificate of pilgrimage complete with Saint and halo and swirls. And of all the pilgrims I met, I believe the latter, the ones who state their atheism outright, are some of the most beloved. I have no proof of this, it’s just something whispered to me somewhere along the meseda as I met yet another of the “Godless” (their words), some of whom literally ran to Saint James.

So how does one walk the Camino? It’s stunningly obvious. One step at a time. One foot in front of the other. Sometimes giving a hand, sometimes taking a hand. Always, always asking for enough strength to make it up the next hill (or down, which is far more difficult). And when adversity strikes – we had a deadly stomach flu in the meseda, which almost stopped our trek – stop, rest, regroup, see what other ways one can make this trek.

I was told that the Camino is of three parts – joy, death, renaissance; the initial joy of companionship, physical strength and challenge, the death of oneself as one joins the rhythm of the landscape, the seasons, the weather, and ceases to think (this happens sometime in the late 2nd or 3rd week as one enters the meseda, and the final renaissance of the spirit as one nears the end of the journey. The same person told me that the real pilgrimage begins once one is home. A priest who blessed us all at a pilgrim mass in Granon, told us that while we walked towards Santiago, we walked westward into our shadow and that when we returned home, we would be leaving our shadow behind. He said we would be new people. I believe him.

And now we are home, I often hear the words, “I’d love to do the Camino but….” (fill in the blank with bad back, bad knees, overweight, no time, can’t afford to etc. etc.), then I think about the blind pilgrim with her seeing eye dog, the pilgrim with the prosthetic leg, the pilgrim who had no legs but who had a special bicycle that towed his wheelchair, the 84 year old that walked 10 kms a day pushing his little wheel barrel, the two year old in his backpack whose parents, like us, went without income for several months and planned for several years, and of course, a little ten year old who never once said she didn’t want to walk, and who even when direly ill and was offered a bus to Santiago, said, “no, I want to walk”. This pilgrim, clad in pale blue from top to bottom, already knew the gifts of the Camino – the comradely, the little birds, the wild dogs, the fields of wheat and blood poppies, the dust and anarchy and beauty of northern Spain, and ultimately, the chance to lay her head against the shoulder of Saint James, in a shadowy cathedral, still so far away.

Suzanne Steele
July 31st, 2007

This trek is also a fundraiser for the Greater Victoria Neonatal Intensive Care Unit, as a thank you for our daughter’s life. If you feel inclined, please visit our online site and make a donation. http://trek4babies.wordpress.com You may also see photos from our trek and read about our trek at this website as well.
Thank you
(Suzanne Steele, Fred Speckeen and Ella Speckeen were members of OSP from 2003-2005)

for the truly brave, here is the link to the first set of pix from the camino… warning warning warning, you may nod off!

enjoy

http://photoshare.shaw.ca/view/8271715536-1185375608-10203/82717

here are some more…

 http://photoshare.shaw.ca/view/8271751853-1185638312-53779/82717

there are about 1000 more!  and I just grabbed a bunch somewhat randomly… I’ll do a better job a.s.a.p.

We´ve enjoyed our time here so much.  Today on the beach and swimming (ok, for a few minutes only!) and, of course, meeting so many friends from the Camino who seem to be arriving every day.  Two doors up from our hotel is a wonderful taverna, Ultreia.  Ella and Suzanne and I have played music there for the past two nights as there´s a guitar and an open door for musicians who want to play.  Ella and I have had a chance to dig into her repetoire together and it´s been a heartfelt celebration of arriving here in this beautiful fishing village.  Jose, the proprietor, is a wonderful musician, himself.  He told me that he´d posted photos taken last night on his website. You can find these on the tavern website today http://www.tabernaultreia.com/ .  Looking forward to one more night here and another evening of playing tomorrow.  It´s now after 1AM so time for even the locals to consider getting off to bed! 

Very best wishes to all from

Fred

to you who are sending in donations, thank you… unfortunately, we are having difficulty gaining access to the webpage and so we can´t thank you personally at this time… please know that we are extremely grateful to you and that your kindness will go a long way to helping newborns breath easier.

 S, F & E

on the first day of our trek, we met a 71 year old woman who had hiked 3000 kms from her home in Rotterdam.  When I asked her for advice on how best to make our journey, she replied, “flexible, be flexible”.  That night, when we went to bed in the huge ancient alberge at Roncevalles and I didn´t have a sleeping bag, only a sleeping bag liner as did she, we both decided we would just have to sleep in ALL our clothing and it was not big deal.  Within a few minutes, the hospitalier, a big Dutch guy, took us aside and quietly found some blankets for us.  It was my introduction to life on the camino… there is always a bed, some food and companionship.

So flexible became my motto for the camino.  Good thing too…

just as I was preparing to go to Seville two days ago, while Fred and Ella were hiking to Finisterre, I changed my mind and decided to take a bus and meet them at the first village.  I texted Fred on his mobile phone and he texted back, “great!”  I changed my train ticket to a bus ticket and just as I was going to get on the bus to meet them, I received another text from Fred saying that he needed me to call him immediately as he and Ella were returning to Santiago.

I called Fred and he told me he had been hit by a car while hiking, that he wasn´t hurt badly (bruised arm from the driver´s side mirror hitting him and breaking) and that they had to return to Santiago as a little dog had followed them for 20 kms and they had to bring it back… also, E was missing me terribly and was very upset at seeing the accident after which, the driver had gotten out of the car and screamed at Fred (!) for breaking her mirror… she, by the way had hit him!!!  The strange thing is that the previous night I had said to Fred that I felt we were so lucky that nothing awful had happened to us on the camino and that I almost thought I was tempting fate by heading off to Seville alone…

long story short, they took a cab into Santiago and I found us a room, we had a nice night in the town then took a bus to Finnisterre together yesterday.  What a lovely town Finnisterre is… I had expected a tacky tourist village, stuffed with camino “crap” as we call the souvenir shops(!), but in fact Finisterre is a real fishing village filled with real people… any other seaside town in Europe would be jam packed with expensive condos and shops and traffic… Finisterre seems unconcerned with tourists, especially of the pilgrim kind!

So last night we hiked up to the lighthouse, toasted our trek, then hiked down to meet friends.  We played music in the Taberna Ultreia - a fitting name for a tavern esp. for us, as the first camino song we learned was Ultreia, a medieval pilgrim song - at one point in the evening E. was playing fiddle for a rapt audience who came off the street once they heard the music!  I sang and we had a great time… we even sang Barrett´s Privateers!

One other interesting thing is that when Ella and I went for a walk yesterday, we were standing on a hill overlooking the bay when suddenly along came someone we hadn´t seen since several weeks previous…. we hugged, then along came two dear friends we hadn´t seen since the beginning of our trek, then a minute later, another dear one from the last two weeks of our trek … there is no reason any of us should have been there as we were all well ahead or behind each other…. such is the camino

So this, our journey has ended.  All´s well that ends well… from Finisterre

 Suzanne

we clicked our way down the cobblestones of old Santiago de Compostela at 12 noon yesterday.  I shall always remember the feeling of seeing the cathedral spires and the happy fatigue of my body as we entered the main square. 

Ten years of dreaming this journey, and now it´s done.  While it´s far too early to understand the meaning of it, all I can say is that as I climbed the narrow staircase behind the cathedral´s main altar to the tiny room behind Santiago, and when I hugged the saint, I felt great gratitude.  Later, after communion with hundreds of pilgrims from around the world, I looked up to the dome of the cathedral where sunlight was beginning to filter through, and the only words that came to mind were, “thank you”.  Thank you for life, thank you for a body strong enough to sustain such a journey, and most of all, thank You for the life of my child.  When our daughter faced such a tough beginning in life, and when nothing could be guaranteed, I never dreamed in a thousand years that I would one day be walking into Santiago de Compostela with her and her father… and now here we are.

 Tomorrow, she and he leave to walk to Finnisterre.  I shall head for Seville.  We will meet up in France.

We will continue this web site into the autumn and keep you up to date on events etc.  Also, we will post photos a.s.a.p.  and finally, we will continue fundraising for the VGH NICU.  Please know that all your money will go to the NICU and is greatly appreciated - no matter how big or small the donation.

 with gratitude, from Santiago de Compostela

Suzanne

p.s. I placed my list of 250 names of people for whom and with whom I have prayed with each step of the way on the Camino de Santiago to Compostela,  into a little space behind Santiago… these prayers should be in heaven by now!

I write this as we are drinking our morning cafe solo con tostadas… my knee is feeling like it can walk to Santiago today!  I am wearing a skirt in honour of Santiago (Saint James) -   actually, hiking in a skirt is great -  and the weather is overcast which is perfect for morning hiking.

Just before the 100 km mark, I bought some sheep bells for me and Ella to ring at each kilometer mark to let Saint James know we are coming.  If you listen really hard, you may hear them in Canada at 5 a.m. PST (12 noon UK time) as well stroll into Santiago.

Thanks for the encouragement, the messages of congratulations etc… please keep your eyes on this site as I shall continue to write from Santiago, enroute to Finnisterre, and when I get home to Canada, I will make a slide show and put it up on the site.

Okay pilgrims (including the 155 names I carry and for whom I pray with each step towards Santiago)… let´s go!

 Suzannah del Camino de Santiago de Compostela

A journey of 800km+ is simply unimaginable at the outset, in both time and distance.  The mind only concerns itself with weather, clothing, food and physical maintenance.  Planning more than that is conceit, as assumptions about health, a predictable schedule etc are only that, and not guaranteed.  The past 45 days has, in this sense, been extremely liberating, but also (in the larger scheme of things) maybe more realistic in that we may think we control so much in our lives but actually control so little.  The simplicity of completing one day´s journey and getting ready for the next has been very relaxing for me.  Now that we have only 20km or so to go, it´s interesting to make the shift back to more long range planning such as hotel reservations, airplane reservations, and where one plans to be not in one day, but in one week, one month or even one year.  I´m feeling very happy and thankful to have had this chance to be with Ella and Suzanne on this long meander through Northern Spain, and thankful for all of the interesting people and great support and messages we´ve met and had along the way.  Tomorrow promises to be interesting!

Fred

it´s always a dangerous thing to make definitive statements… yesterday, I said we were in top physical shape… well, today for the first time ever my knee has begun acting up and I had to stop early for the day. 

 Perhaps it´s because we hiked 32 kms yesterday, or maybe because I am carrying more weight (Ella´s books for example!), or maybe even because the camino has become so much more crowded since the 100km mark and is much more difficult to walk - because the short-distance pilgrims are generally slow walkers due to pain or just generally not being in shape and also, because they tend to walk in large groups, we have to change our rythmn and pace to make our way around them… whatever the reason, I am using Ibuprofen cream and taking anti-imflammatories…

I have heard of many long distance pilgrims injuring themselves in the last 10 kms and I don´t want to add my name to their list!

So we have stopped in a nondescript highway town and are staying the night in a little room above a gas station.  It sounds awful but it isn´t.  It always surprises me to find clean, nicely decorated and quiet lodgings in really unappealing locations.  Not only does this gas station have nice rooms above it, but it also has a great restaurant and bar. 

The ubiquitous Spanish bar is a real treat - a place for a great cafe solo, or a cervesa, or a bowl of calda galiga or a three course meal (after 7:30 p.m. for the food anyway!).  George, the guy I met in Logroño, and who owns a Cuban bar there, says that there are only a few thousand less bars in Spain than in the entire E.U.  It is a way of life and a good one at that. 

F., E and I just returned from our paseo through the village and ran into the gang we have been travelling alongside for the past week and a half.  A guy from Nanaimo, a woman from Vancouver, a guy from Austria, a Swiss man, an American woman and an Australian woman.  As Jeff, the Canadian said as we took a seat beside him on the sidewalk outside the bar, “it´s all the usual suspects”.   I couldn´t begin to count up the number of cafe solos, cervesas and meals we have shared these past days, especially when we have hiked great distances.  What a pleasure to roll into a village and see smiling faces, or else to be sitting in a village and have Jeff or Mark stride in and pull up a seat.  Good companions.

All of this gang came to the camino solo.  Several met within an hour of leaving St. Jean… and here they are six weeks later, good friends for life I suspect.  Today, as we sat down and chatted with them, I felt sadness like an umbrella over them as they realize their amazing time together is almost over.

I spoke with Dominic, the Austrian about the camino and how the gifts are many.  Even with pain comes laughter, or especially on the camino, something beautiful.  So many times our trek has been leavened by something really funny e.g. the baby we travel with, biting our mascot, a stuffed black and white cat called Mouser… every time we see Noah on the camino, he jumps up and down in his backpack on his father´s back and looks excitedly for Mouser.  Ella gives him the cat and he proceeds to bite it, drown it, bash it… whatever his little two year old mind feels like doing.  We laugh and laugh.

Other times we might see a funny dog such as the one we saw earlier today - we thought it was an old mop sitting in the middle of the camino, until we neared it and it sleepily put its head up and blinked its eyes at us until we passed. 

So much delight, so much challenge.  The camino in a nutshell.

Some of the long distance pilgrims resent the 100 km pilgrims.  We think it is a fine Spanish tradition that entire schools or scout troops or parishes hike the camino together.  We even appreciate the family whose father drives every 200 metres then hikes back to meet his family.  After meeting a blind pilgrim, a pilgrim without the use of his legs (he rode a specially adapted bike), an 84 year old pilgrim, a 2 year old pilgrim in a backpack… we think that however one makes the camino, it is the intention that is beautiful.

So am I sad to be at an end of our camino?  Not really.  My body says it´s time.  I shall miss meeting so many amazing people, but I think if one keeps open to life then inevitably more amazing people come along.  As for Spain, I know I shall always love Spain and will hopefully return again and again - especially for flamenco!

Until I next write from Santiago, all the best.  Think of us as we hike the last and in many ways, the most difficult kilometers of our journey.

 Suzanne

after a 30 km day, a record for us and totally unintentional, we are in Arzua.  We are 39 kms from Santiago and will hike to the 22 km point for tomorrow, and will be walking into Santiago sometime Saturday afternoon.  It all depends on how many stops for coffee, cervesas etc. we will have.

today, we hiked 15 kms in 3 1/2 hours… a record for us, and totally unexpected.  we are in tremendous physical, emotional and spiritual shape, and the kilometers just fly by. 

must go, more later but it´s time for dinner and I´m running out of computer time….

chill the champagne! 

Suzanne

p.s. if anyone wants to text us on Sat. afternoon, we´d love it