so how far did we walk exactly?

you know, we haven’t a clue…

Ella’s pedometer died after day three, and the guidebooks vary in distances significantly - some cite 900 kms, others 750kms, still others factor in elevations and adjust distances. At the height of the Pyrenees we passed a marker that said 769 kms which came as a total shock to us as we thought we were going to walk 750kms!

Then at the bottom of the Pyrenees, after 27 kms (or 25 or ??? depending on which book) of walking up and down in wind, fog, rain, hot sun, we passed a sign that said Santiago 790kms. We couldn’t believe it. How could we have walked so far - in the right direction I might add - and not be closer to Santiago. What’s with that?

Eventually we got used to contrary signage and contrary information. I clearly remember “cracking” the 300 km mark, as stated on a handpainted sign which included the pilgrim encouragement, “Ultreia”, only to arrive at our destination that day and read another sign that said Santiago - 329 kms…I almost cried.

Even on our last day, an easy 20 kms into the city of Santiago, we met a Swiss friend who told us that his guide book says all the signpost distances were incorrect and that in fact we had to hike 29 kms to the city centre!!! (His book is a German publication that some German and English pilgrims knicknamed “the Fuerer”, as in, “where does the Fuerer say we have to go today” or, “what does the Fuerer say about this alberge”)

So when we factor in variable distances, then the unclocked distances walked in search of alberges, provisions, retracing routes, detours to tourist sights etc. etc., and taking into account the two taxis we took when horrendously ill, I’ve come up with 850 kms and I’m sticking with it! The truth is, no matter how many kilometers we hiked….

it was a very, very long way!!

p.s. yesterday, I hiked 17 kms just to blow the cobwebs out. No pack, cool but sunny weather, fresh etc… I was exhausted when I got home. Amazed too that we actually did that and more, once, twice the distance, day after day after day. Such is the camino.